Amigurumi Hat Teddy Bear Free Crochet Pattern

In this article I will share with you amigurumi hat teddy bear free crochet pattern. We always keep you up-to-date with Amigurumi.

Necessary materials

1. Fluffy yarn – Flora Troitskaya 240m / 100g, color

Cognac, hook 1.75. Gone ка skein.

2. For the bear that was connected in the process

MK design, used jeans yarn from

YarnArt 160m / 50g, hook 1.75. It took ½ skein.

3. Filler holofiber.

4. A wire for reinforcing handles about 0.2 meters,

you can use shaggy wire (it is not necessary

wrap with adhesive tape).

5. Insulating tape or adhesive tape for wrapping the wire.

6. Cotter pins for fastening handles, legs, head.

For the head the T-shaped forelock 28mm (1 piece), 1 washer

9mm and 1 disc 30mm on the head side, 1 washer 15mm with

side of the body;

for handle-legs – 4 T-shaped cotter pins 20mm and 8 washers

diameter 9mm. Can use thread

mount.

7. Plastic buttons for the eyes. I used

Buttons with a diameter of 9 mm.

8. Thread and needle for making tightenings.

9. Pastel and brush for tinting.

10. Weighting agent (granulate, shot or fishing

weights).

11. Black yarn for embroidery spout.

PATTERN

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Abbreviations:

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

sl-st – slip-stitch

DEC – decrease

inc – increase

double.inc – we knit 3sc in one loop

Feet (2 parts)

We dial 6ch, continue from the second loop

1st row – 4sc, double.inc, continue along the second side of the chain from ch, 3sc, inc -12sc

2nd row – inc, 3sc, 3inc, 4sc, 2inc = 18sc – the beginning of the row will shift to 1sc

3-5 rows – 18sc

6 row – 4sc, 4DEC, 4sc, DEC -13sc

7 row – 5sc, DEC, 6sc -12sc

8-13 rows – 12sc

We begin to fill the part with holofiber – we fill the sock and the heel. Insert the cotter pin

between 12 and 13 rows and continue to fill the part – the degree of packing is dense, but without

stretching the canvas. For the paws, I use a 20mm T-pin and a 9mm washer (without disc).

Filling the parts and inserting the cotter pin, pay attention to the fact that the right and

left legs.

14 row – 6dec

Add filler and tighten the hole with a needle, fasten and hide the thread inside the foot.

Pens (2 parts)

1 row – 6sc into magic ring

2 row – 6inc = 12sc

3-5 rows – 12sc

6 row – DEC, 10sc = 11sc

7 row – DEC, 9sc = 10sc

8-16 rows – 10sc

We begin to form a foot – first we stuff a palm (average degree of stuffing). Take

fluffy wire dec, cut off the double length of the foot and fold the wire in half.

For the paws, I use a 20mm T-pin and a 9mm washer (without disc).

We withdraw the cotter pin between the 15th and 16th rows (pay attention to the right and left sides) and

insert the wire frame into the foot. If you wish, you can add more holofiber, but I

I am limited only to stuffing my palms.

Torso (1 piece)

1 row – 6sc into magic ring

2 row – 6inc = 12sc

3 row – (1sc, 1inc) x6 = 18sc

4-7 rows – 18sc

8 row – (2sc, 1inc) x6 = 24sc mark the first and fourth increments with a marker (places for

joining the handles to the body)

9-10 rows – 24sc

11 row – (3sc, 1inc) x6 = 30sc

12 row – 30sc

13 row – (4sc, 1inc) x6 = 36sc

Rates 14-17 – 36sc

At this stage of knitting, you need to insert a cotter pin with a disk for attaching the head, removing the tip

cotter pin in the middle of the initial ring of amigurumi. I use a 28mm T-pin and

15mm washer (without disc)

Now you need to attach the handles to the body in the places noted earlier. From the torso

I used a 9mm washer without a disc.

Please note that when twisting the cotter pin, the resulting rings must be

abut against a washerdec, not a disk (when using it) or a knitted fabric.

18 row – (4sc, 1dec) x6 = 30sc

19th row – 30sc, mark with a marker the places for joining the legs to the body between 6 and 7 sc

and 21 and 22 sc.

The photo shows how the marker should be located for attaching the legs. If you have a description

it turns out to be biased, correct it according to your detail.

20 row – (3sc, 1dec) x6 = 24sc

21 row – 24sc

22 row – (2sc, 1dec) x6 = 18sc

We fix the legs to the body in the places marked in the 17th row. From the torso side I used

9mm washer without disc.

We fill the part with holofiber, the degree of packing is dense, but without stretching the canvas.

Since the animal we get is not of standard proportions, a large head can

outweigh, and the toy will fall. To avoid this, you can weight the body and

add metal granulate or fishing weights to the belly (just be sure to put

them in an embroidered bag or bag).

23 row – (1sc, 1dec) x6 = 12sc

24 row – 6dec = 6sc

Add filler. Cut the thread, tighten the hole, fasten and cut the thread, leaving

the end is about 30-50 cm long (we will knit the tail).

Tail

1 row – with the help of a needle we bring the end of the thread between approximately 18 and 19 rows and pick up

on the body 6sc (pay attention to the symmetry of its location relative to

legs), 1ch, turn

2 row – DEC, 2, DEC, 1ch, turn

3 row – 2DEC, 1ch, turn

4th row – DEC, gently sew the tip of the tail to the torso.

If desired, you can type a small circle on the body and tie the tail in the form of a ball

(for a bunny) or make a big fox

Ears (2 parts)

The part is knitted in rotary rows.

1 row – 6sc into magic ring, 1ch, turn

2 row – (1sc, 1inc) x3, 1ch, turn

3 row – (2sc, 1inc) x3, 1ch, rotation

4 row – (3sc, 1inc) x3, 1ch, turn

5 row – 15sc, 1ch, turn

6 row – 15sl-st

Fasten and cut the thread, leaving the end for sewing.

Muzzle (1 piece)

We dial 6ch, continue from the second loop

1 row – 4, double.inc, continue along the second side of the chain of ch, 3, inc = 12sc

2nd row – inc, 3, 3inc, 4, 2inc = 18sc – the beginning of the row will shift to 1sc

3-4 rows – 18sc

5 row – (2sc, 1inc) x6 = 24sc

Fasten and cut the thread, leaving the end for sewing.

Head (1 piece)

1 row – 6sc into magic ring

2 row – 6inc = 12sc

3 row – (1sc, 1inc) x6 = 18sc

4 row – (2sc, 1inc) x6 = 24sc

5 row – (3sc, 1inc) x6 = 30sc

6 row – (4sc, 1inc) x6 = 36sc

7 row – (5sc, 1inc) x6 = 42sc

8 row – (6sc, 1inc) x6 = 48sc

9 row – (7sc, 1inc) x6 = 54sc

10 row – (8sc, 1inc) x6 = 60sc

11 row – (9sc, 1inc) x6 = 66sc

12-25 rows – 66sc

Do not be afraid of the size of your head, the photo shows the ratio of the head and body.

26 row – (9sc, 1dec) x6 = 60sc

27 row – (8sc, 1dec) x6 = 54sc

28 row – (7sc, 1dec) x6 = 48sc

29 row – (6sc, 1dec) x6 = 42sc

30 row – (5sc, 1dec) x6 = 36sc

31 row – (4sc, 1dec) x6 = 30sc

We fasten the head to the body. From the side of the head, I use a 9mm washer and a disc with a diameter of 30mm.

This is necessary so that the head does not fall over on its side (in the photo I showed the ratio upper torso and disc).

Frankly, I did not try to sew such a big head to a small body.

You may have to sew the head to the body (like a button) and insert it into the “bottom” of the head

a circle cut out of plastic with a diameter of about 30 mm and then fill tightly

holofiber.

To those who fasten their heads with a cotter pin, I remind you that the bent ends must abut

in the wasdec, not in the drive.

32 row – (3sc, 1dec) x6 = 24sc

33 row – (2sc, 1dec) x6 = 18sc

34 row – (1sc, 1dec) x6 = 12sc

We fill the head with holofiber, the degree of stuffing is average (we will perform the tightening).

The last row is not tied to the complete design of all the hooks and sewing the eye.

35 row – 6dec

Muzzle decoration

In the lower part of the head we fasten the muzzle with pins and begin to sew it, adding inside

holofiber.

Pay attention, if it is good to stretch the edge of the muzzle during sewing, then the seam will be

not very noticeable even when working with smooth yarn.

Now let’s start embroidering the nose. I usually place it on top of the muzzle.

After the spout is ready, do not cut the thread, we need it to indicate

mouth after performing tightening.

Eye design.

1. Pins indicate the location of the eyes.

2. We take a needle and a thread for making tightenings (I usually take a thread 50-60 cm long, so that is enough

and for tightening and sewing on the eye). We fix the thread at the mark of one of the eyes, further introducing

the needle at the location of one eye, display it at the mark of the other, tighten (fix

Utyazhkdec, but without fanaticism), we repeat one more time.

3. Now you need to slightly “drown” the eyes. To do this, insert the needle into the deepening of the eye and withdraw

it on the back of the head (make sure that the needle comes out between the loops without grabbing the strings,

then the bear will not have a cavity at the back of the head). We return the needle back through the same hole on

the back of the head. Repeat the same for the second eye.

4. We designate a mouth. The needle from one eye is displayed in the lower part of the muzzle in the middle under

nose and through the upper point of the middle of the muzzle (just under the nose) we return it to another

eye. We repeat.

5. We sink the muzzle. The needle from the eye is again inserted into the lower part of the muzzle in the middle and

through the upper middle (under the spout) we bring to the back of the head, tighten and return back to

eye area. Sew on the eyes.

6. The left thread of black embroider mouth.

We bring all the strings to the crown and fix them well there. If the bear on the back of the head

at the place of the hooks the filler “fell”; it can be added through the crown.

Now we tie the remaining row of the head, tighten the hole with a needle and hide the thread.

Sewing on the ears.

Before sewing on the ears, try on them, try different positions (from this

depends on the character and mood of the bear).