Amigurumi Bum Cat Free Crochet Pattern

Welcome to our website where you can find the most beautiful and highest quality samples of Amigurumi patterns. All the amigurumi patterns you can’t find are available on our website. Every day we continue to share new amigurumi patterns for you. Stay tuned to reach these amigurumi patterns before anyone else

Terms Used:

slst – slip stitch

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

inc – increase

dec – decrease

To create a Tramp we need:

– hook (I have Clover Amour No. 1.5);

– yarn, any to your taste (I have Nako Paris (100gr / 245m)). It took a cat

two hanks of red (just a bit left) and a little white (you can

to take any bright one or make a single-colored cat);

– holofiber;

– wire for the frame (I have a section of 2mm, it took about 5 meters);

– fishing line or monofilament for antennae;

– eyes / nose. According to your taste, according to the size of your future

toys. I picked up an already prepared face from ordinary cabochons for

aquarium. The diameter of the cabochons is 20 mm, the width of the nose is 15 mm. Can be blinded

nose made of plastic;

– a long needle for sewing and a strong thread for tightening.

From optional:

– pastel / oil paints or any convenient means for tinting.

Brush for tinting;

– a joint for fastening the head (1 pc) to understand what diameter

need a joint – tie a small circle of 30 sc (I had a 40 mm disk

in diameter);

– or cotter pins / discs / washers for fastening the head (2 discs 40 mm in diameter,

1 T-shaped cotter pin 30 mm long, 2 metal washers (if you have

cardboard discs);

– cotter pins / discs / washers for attaching the front legs (4 discs 20 mm in

diameter, 2 cotter pins 25 mm long, 4 metal washers (if you have

cardboard discs);

– felting wool and felting needles. Better a few, they can

break if you are a beginner. I lied for the first time, so on the cat

irrevocably “gone” 3 needles: D It is better to take some of the thinnest

to complete and a couple thicker for the main job. And you can leave

paws without pads.

– any yarn for bactus (I have Cartopu Ndecuk). It took quite

a little bit;

– any accessories, decorations to your taste.

And here are the Tramp test results:

Tramp – a naive, gullible cutie-boy turned out at Nadezhda Panfilova (Kotik

35 cm tall, knitted from bobbin mohair in three strands. Head and forelegs on

cotter pins, spout molded manually from plastic)

And the Tramp – a solid, settled down (probably still with his family and kids) man in

in full bloom, got @mylya B (Kitty 35 cm tall, tied from Alize Angora

Gold (1 hank) + Kid Moher (2 hanks). The sweater is knitted from Semenov Souffle (a little

more than half a hank). Head and forelegs on cotter pins, spout molded manually

made of plastic)

We knit all the rows in a circle, for both sides of the loop, unless otherwise stated in the text

When knitting from textured yarn, we stretch the fur and shift it to the right

(front) side of knitting (optional) to get mega-fluffiness)

I will show you with examples:

Related details look like this:

All this fluffiness is obtained without fleece, only due to shifting

pile.

The yarn from which they are knitted is mohair Alize Klassik New. But in any

textured yarn will also have a great effect compared to ordinary

fleece.

On the example of the Tramp I can only partially show, since I found out about it

the method is already at the stage of its completion. But there is a photo on the example of mohair.

How to shift: we take a thread and with our fingers we carefully rake the whole

pile on yourself and shift to the right front side of the knitting.

Press with your finger and knit the next loop. So do after

each loop. That’s it!) We look at the photo:

Yes, a way for those still masochists and quite a bit slows down the process

knitting, but, you see, the result is worth it 🙂 Here is a photo of the details on the side and

inside out:

Do not be afraid that the strings seem “bald”, this is only at first glance.

When you knit several rows in this way, you will see the effect yourself.

Tested on KHT and Nako Paris)

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

Hind legs

1. Foot (we knit 2 pieces)

We start knitting in white or any other complementary color if

the toy is not monophonic. Pile shift to the right side. Behind the marker

You can not follow.

1.6 sc into magic ring

2.6 inc = 12

3. (1 sc, inc) * 6 = 18

4.1 sc, (inc, 2 sc) * 5, inc, 1 sc = 24

5. (3 sc, inc) * 6 = 30

6.30

7.30

Next, change the color to the main one, if you do not have a plain toy.

8. (8 sc, dec) * 3 = 27

9.27

10.27

11.27

12.27

13. (7 sc, dec) * 3 = 24

14.24

15.24

16.24

Now you need to make a hole for the frame. In the center of the foot on top of the foot

you need to knit 5 ch, skip 5 loops and starting at 6 loops from the hook

continue knitting.

That is, we knit like this:

17.10 sc, 5 ch, skip 5 sc, 9 sc = 24

18.24

19.24

20. (2 sc, dec) * 6 = 18

Do not close until the end. We stuff the sock with the filler, insert

wire, and evenly fill the entire foot with filler, enough

tight, but don’t overdo it, we still have to make finger fingers.

After the frame is inserted, you can close the heel:

21. (1 sc, dec) * 6 = 12

22. 6 dec

Stitch the loops, fasten the thread, hide and cut.

If the heel is too loose, you can fill it at this stage through

hole for the frame.

Frame

All the details of the frame are doubled for better stability, because

the cat is pretty big. So that the wire does not slip inside and

so that sharp edges do not pierce the knitted fabric, I wrap it with a band-aid

along the entire length of the part. To make it easy to make weight, it’s better to do

eyelets on the edges of the frame. The length of the frame of the hind legs is about 35 cm (this is the length

a piece folded in half, that is, the length of the piece of wire we need –

about 70 cm. (Take with a margin, then to form the spine.

The longest part is the tail (about 50 cm when folded). For,

so that it keeps its shape well and bends easily even in the thickest

places, it is better to add another piece of wire. Front frame

I have about 25 cm of paws. If you plan to make the front paws on

cotter pins, then the frame for them we will do later!

2. Hip (we knit 2 pieces)

We start knitting from the top of the foot (the one that is closer to the heel).

We follow the broker, it passes through the center of the heel, if necessary, we knit

ps. We shift the pile to the right side from the second row.

1. Around the hole that we made for the frame, we retreat 2 loops with

all sides and knit oval / circle = 24 sc.

From the next row we shift the pile to the right side.

2.24

3. (11, inc) * 2 = 26 (increases in front of the fingers and heels)

The threads on the white sock are not yet stretched, do not pay attention to them

4.26

5.26

6. 12 sc, inc, 13 sc = 27 (increase from above, opposite the heel)

7. 13, inc, 13 = 28 (increase from the bottom, opposite the fingers)

8.28

9. 6 sc, inc, 14 sc, inc, 6 sc, ps = 30 (increase from top to bottom, left to right)

10. (14 sc, inc) * 2 = 32 (1 increment above and below)

11.7 sc, inc, 16 sc, inc, 7 sc = 34 (1 increase on each side)

12. (16 sc, inc) * 2 = 36 (1 increase above and below)

13.8 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc, 8 sc = 38 (1 increase on each side)

14. (18 sc, inc) * 2 = 40 (1 increase above and below)

15.40

16.40

17.40

18. 40

19.40

20. (8 sc, dec) * 4 = 36 (y6calls from top to bottom, left to right)

21. 36

22.8 sc, dec, (7 sc, dec) * 2, 8 sc = 33 (1 x 6 in the left, right and bottom lines)

For the left thigh, we continue knitting:

23. Sl-st, 17 sc, sl-st, cut the thread, fasten. Between connecting

loops left 14 sc of the previous row, mark the 1st and 14th ext.

markers. For the remaining 12 loops, we will knit the paws into the body.

For the right thigh, continue knitting in the opposite direction (against

clockwise):

23. Sl-st, 17 sc, SL-ST. 14 sc left between connecting loops

of the previous row, mark the 1st and 14th add. markers. For the remaining 12

stitches we will knit paws into the body

Trim and fasten the thread. It turns out like this:

Front legs

We start knitting with white or any additional thread. Paws can

to tie, sew or insert cotter pins. Therefore, the end of knitting will be

different for all ways. You don’t have to follow the marker by simply marking

beginning of a row. Pile shift to the right side. Insert the frame by

as knitting, we also stuff gradually. For cotter pin mounting

and do the packing later.

Foot on the left – without shifting the pile, on the right with shifting, without

fleece.

1.6 sc into magic ring

2.6 inc = 12

3. (1 sc, inc) * 6 = 18

4. (2 sc, inc) * 6 = 24

5.24

6.24

Go to the main color:

7.24

8. (dec, 10 sc) * 2 = 22

9.22

10. (9 sc, dec) * 2 = 20

and another 40 rows – 20 sc

If you are planning:

– sew on the foot – leave the thread for sewing.

– knit the foot – fasten the thread, cut it and wait until it is ready

torso.

– cotter pin – first we make a frame with eyelets on the top and bottom:

Insert the cotter pin into the disk. Between the disk and cotter pin we place a small

a metal washer to prevent abrasion of the disc:

We insert the frame, fill the foot. We insert a cotter pin with a disk in 2 rows

lower from the edge:

The disc should be slightly smaller than the width of the foot:

We fill the foot to the end, close the loops:

2 sc (dec, 1sc) * 6 = 14

7 dec = 7

Pull the loops, fasten and cut the thread:

Repeat the same with the second foot.

Tail

We start knitting with white or any additional thread. Pile

we shift to the right side. You can not follow the marker.

We insert the frame and fill as we knit.

1.6 sc into magic ring

2.6 inc = 12

3. (1 sc, inc) * 6 = 18

4. (2 sc, inc) * 6 = 24

5. (3 sc, inc) * 6 = 30

6. (9 sc, inc) * 3 = 33

7.33

8.33

9.33

10.33

Go to the main color:

11. (9 sc, dec) * 3 = 30

12.30

13.30

14. (8 sc, dec) * 3 = 27

15.27

16. (7 sc, dec) * 3 = 24

17.24

18.24

19.24

20.24

21. 24

22. (6 sc, dec) * 3 = 21

23. – 68. (45 rows) = 21 sc

69. dec, 19 sc = 20

70.20

71.20

72. dec, 18 sc = 19

73.19

74.19

75. dec, 17 sc = 18

76. 18

77. 18

78. 18

79. 18

80. dec, 16sc = 17

81-87. (6 rows) = 17

Finish knitting, leave thread for sewing, if you plan

sew or fasten and cut the thread if you plan to tie the tail into

body. You can comb the detail if knitted without shifting the pile.

Ears (2 parts)

We put the pile on the right side, the marker goes along the central part

abalone At one ear it will go along the inside, at the second on the outside.

1.6 sc into magic ring

2.6 inc = 12

3. (3 sc, inc.) * 3 = 15

4. İnc, (3 sc, inc.) * 3, 2 sc = 19

5.1 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc., 10 sc = 21

6.2 sc, inc., 6 sc, inc., 11 sc = 23

7.3sc, inc., 7 sc, inc., 11 sc = 25

8.4 sc, inc., 7 sc, inc., 12 sc = 27

9.5 sc, inc., 8 sc, inc., 12 sc = 29

10. İnc., 4 sc, inc., 9 sc, inc., 13 sc = 32

11.7 sc, inc., 10 sc, inc, 13 sc = 34

12. Dec, 32sc = 33

13.24 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 3 sc = 31

14. Dec, 17 sc, dec, 10 sc = 29

15.29

Fasten the thread and leave a piece for sewing.

Torso

We put the pile on the right side, the marker goes along the central part

puzichka. We follow, if necessary, we knit a bias loop.

1.6 sc into magic ring

2.6 inc = 12

3. (1 sc, inc) * 6 = 18

4. (2 sc, inc) * 6 = 24

5. (3 sc, inc) * 6 = 30

6. (5sc, inc) * 5 = 35

7.2 sc, (inc, 4 sc) * 6, inc, 2sc = 42

8. (5 sc, inc) * 7 = 49

9.3 sc, (inc, 6 sc) * 6, inc, 3 sc = 56

10. (7 sc, inc) * 7 = 63

11.4 sc, (inc (8 sc) * 6, inc, 4 sc = 70

12. (9sc, inc) * 7 = 77

13.5 sc, (inc, 10 sc) * 6, inc, 5 sc = 84

Then we knit the paws. We start from the right.

We attach the paws to the detail, do not confuse the left with the right) We look to

they stood the same, the toes of the paws will be slightly to the sides. Knit

start for the first loop after dm. Do not forget to shift the pile to

the right side (those daredevils who did this, of course: D)

14.20 sc, 12 sc on the paw and body, 20 sc, 12 sc on the paw and body, 20 sc = 84

15.19 sc, dec (body loop, paw loop), 19 sc on the outside of the thigh,

dec (paw loop, body loop), 18 sc, dec (body loop, paw loop) 19 sc

outer thigh, dec (paw loop, body loop), 19 sc = 98

16.20 sc on the tummy, 19 sc on the outside of the thigh, 20 sc on the back,

19 sc on the outside of the thigh, 20 on the tummy = 98 loops

We connect the frameworks of the legs in one, forming the spine. Watch to

the wire did not pull our body, it is better to leave it a bit loose.

We fix our spine with a band-aid so as not to cut ourselves on sharp edges

frame when stuffing.

17. İnc, 23 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) * 2, 9 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) * 2, 9 sc, inc, (3 sc,

inc) * 2, 23 sc = 108

18. 40 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) * 3, 2 sc, inc, 40 sc = 114

19.37, inc, 2 sc, (inc, 10 sc) * 3, inc, 2 sc, inc, 37 sc = 120

20. 120

21.120

22.120

23.120

If you will sew the tail, then in this row it’s better to make a hole,

in order to conveniently insert the frame:

24. 58 sc 4 ​​ch, skip 4 sc, continue to the 5th from the hook, 58 sc = 120

If you want to tie a tail:

24. 56 sc, 8 sc on the inside of the tail, 56 sc = 120

We attach the tail frame to the spine, also remembering to leave

the wire is a little loose so as not to deform the body.

25. 56 sc, 9 sc on the outside of the tail, 56 sc = 121

For convenience, I wrap my hind legs with my tail – so it doesn’t interfere with knitting and

does not take up much space

26.59 sc, dec, 60 sc = 120

27.120

28.120

29.120

30.120

31.120

32.120

33.120

34. (18 sc, dec) * 6 = 114

35.114

36. (17 sc, dec) * 6 = 108

37.108

38. (16 sc, dec) * 6 = 102

39. 102

40. (15 sc, dec) * 6 = 96

41. 96

42. (14 sc, dec) * 6 = 90

43. 90

44. (13 sc, dec) * 6 = 84

45.84

46. ​​(12 sc, dec) * 6 = 78

47. 78

48. (11 sc, dec) * 6 = 72

49. 72

50. (10 sc, dec) * 6 = 66

51. 66

52. (9 sc, dec) * 6 = 60

53. 60

54. (8 sc, dec) * 6 = 54

55. 54

56. (7 sc, dec) * 6 = 48

57. 48

If you will be tied to the body, do it now:

58. 9 sc, 10 sc along the body and inside of the foot, 10 sc along the back, 10 sc along

body and inside of the foot, 9 sc = 48

59. 9 sc, 10 sc along the body and the outside of the foot, 10 sc along the back, 10 sc along

body and the outer part of the foot, 9 sc = 48

If you plan to sew the legs, then we knit like this:

58. 17 sc, insert dm, 14 sc, insert dm, 17 sc = 48

59. 48

60. (6 sc, dec) * 6 = 42

61.42

If you are sewing on the legs, insert the frame of the foot into the body in place of dm (or

in a place that seems appropriate to you, the main thing is symmetrical),

attach the wire to the main frame (spine), sew on the paws.

The edges of the frame are attached to the spine. We make sure that the body does not contract

wire, isolate the edges of the wire with a plaster. Bend the ends of the wire

inside the body (if you just sew on your head, the edges of the wire are better

do not bend, but insert into the head, along the length – to the middle of the head). Tight

stuffed with filler.

If you make pins on cotter pins, then fasten the cotter pin two rows lower and

3 loops closer to the pusik relative to dm. Or at your discretion.

The main thing is that they look harmonious. Here is such a headless horseman

it turns out:

62.42

63. 42

64. (5 sc, dec) * 6 = 36

65. (4 sc, dec) * 6 = 30

We insert the joint with a screw up (or a disk with a cotter pin), well

close the remaining loops, hide the thread.

Head

We knit from the neck to the crown, if you plan to insert a cotter pin / joint. If

want to sew on – you can also knit or start from the crown of the head (just

expand the description and instead of increments do y6avtok and vice versa).

We shift the pile to the right side (in my photo, unfortunately, without

shifting).

The marker passes along the central front of the muzzle (if a dark brown thread is visible). Filled the detail for

visibility.

If you have a cotter pin, then do not fill until we fix the cotter pin

(more about this later).

1.6 sc into magic ring, do not tighten the loop to the end (so that later

insert the joint / cotter pin / frame there)

2.6 inc = 12

3. (1 sc, inc) * 6 = 18

4. (2 sc, inc) * 6 = 24

5. (3 sc, inc) * 6 = 30

6. (4 sc, inc) * 6 = 36

7. (5 sc, inc) * 6 = 42

8. (6 sc, inc) * 6 = 48

9. (7 sc, inc) * 6 = 54

10. (8 sc, inc) * 6 = 60

11. (9 sc, inc) * 6 = 66

12. (10 sc, inc) * 6 = 72

13. (11 sc, inc) * 6 = 78

14. (25 sc, inc) * 3 = 81

15. İnc, (4 sc, inc) * 4, 40 sc, (inc, 4sc) * 4 = 90

16.8 sc, (inc, 7 sc) * 2, inc, 40 sc, (inc, 7 sc) * 2, inc, 8 sc = 96

17. İnc, 13 sc, inc, 67 sc, inc, 13 sc = 99

18. 99 sc, (additional marker in place of the main one – this will be the bottom edge

faces)

19. 99

20. 99

21. 99

22. 99

23. 99

24. 99

25. 99

26. 99

27. 99

28. 99

29. dec, 4 sc, (dec, 5 sc) * 3, dec, 43 sc, (dec, 5 sc) * 3, dec, 4sc = 90

30.3 sc, (dec, 4 sc) * 3, dec, 44 sc, (dec, 4 sc) * 3, dec, 3 sc = 82 (put

additional marker in place of the main marker – this will be the top edge of the muzzle)

31. 82 sc

32.10 sc, dec, 58 sc, dec, 10 sc = 80

33. 80 sc

34. 80 sc

35. (dec, 38) * 2 = 78

36. 78

37. (11 sc, dec) * 6 = 72

38. 72

39. (10 sc, dec) * 6 = 66

40. (9 sc, dec) * 6 = 60

41. (8 sc, dec) * 6 = 54

42. (7 sc, dec) * 6 = 48

43. (6 sc, dec) * 6 = 42

44. (5 sc, dec) * 6 = 36

45. (4 sc, dec) * 6 = 30

We insert into the open ring the amigurumi screw that stuck out of

torso. Here it is white:

Tighten our ring amigurumi / sew the hole, fasten the thread.

We insert the second part of the joint into the head, fix the details

as tight as possible.

If we do a cotter pin, we pass the cotter pin tendrils into the head,

which stick out of the body. We insert the disk into the head, put it on the antennae.

Do not forget about the metal washer, put it on before

tighten the antennae to prevent the cotter pin from rubbing against the disc.

Tighten our ring amigurumi / sew the hole, fasten the thread.

We twist the cotter pin tendrils with round clues to make them lie

on a metal washer and did not rub on the disk.

Now you can fill your head (tight enough so that when pressed

there were no voids. But don’t overdo it, because we still have to make weight loss) and

close the hole on the top of the head:

46. ​​(3 sc, dec) * 6 = 24

47. (2 sc, dec) * 6 = 18

48. (1sc, dec) * 6 = 12

49.6 dec = 6

Stitch the loops, fasten the thread and cut. Done!

Eyebrows (optional)

The length of the eyebrow will depend on the size of the eye and the image you want.

create. Here you can experiment as you like. I have this:

1.13 ch, turn the knitting

2. The second loop from the hook – 12 sc, ch, turn

3.12 sc

Fasten the thread and leave for sewing. You can pull the pile in

knitting process, you can comb the eyebrows at the end, before sewing.

And here is how the expression of the face changes depending on the position of the eyebrows:

Muzzle (Pillows)

Do not shift the pile, you can not follow the marker.

1.6 sc

2.6 inc = 12

3. (1 sc, inc) * 6 = 18

4. (2 sc, inc) * 6 = 24

5. (3 sc, inc) * 6 = 30

6. (4 sc, inc) * 6 = 36

7. 36

8. 36

9.36

Fasten the thread and leave a little for sewing.

Decor

1. Sew on the face

Has everyone already sewn / put heads on cotter pins? If not – it’s time to do it)

If you’re used to doing weights after combing, comb your head,

face and eyebrows with ears. I did it after tightening.

We pin the face with needles, slightly stretching it on the sides so that it

a bit like an oval. We look how much suits me chosen by you

the height of the muzzle, if something is not like – we shift as

goes to your cat. Decrease in symmetry and only after that

sew on. Leave 5-6 stitches unstitched, fill the face. Not

strongly so that it does not fall out when pressed with a finger, but not

was too hard. More filler can be put in the cheeks and

chin. Sew the remaining loops. We fix the thread and hide it.

My upper edge of the muzzle was at the level of the 30th row from the beginning of knitting,

bottom 10-11 rows down.

Next, divide the face into three segments, dragging it a bit (this can

make a thread to match the muzzle). Can make our ring center

Amigurumi, but you can climb 2 rows up, so it turns out a little

another expression of the face. I settled on the second option.

On the left center is the Amigurumi ring, on the right 2 rows above:

Now we pull back again, already stronger, so that the cheeks are formed and

chin. You can do this for 1 time, if the density of the thread allows.

If you made make-ups with a light thread, then now you can do

one stitch with a dark thread or just tint the lines of the mouth.

2. Sew on ears

Here, as you like, based on the image of your cat. I have a distance

between the ears there were approximately 15-17 rows. The distance between the upper and

lower edge of the ear – 7-8 rows. The upper edge of the ear is closest to the front

parts of the muzzle, the bottom is 3-4 loops closer to the back (i.e. 7-8 loops

down and from the top edge and 3-4 loops back to the back of the head). Sew a little

turning the edges of the eye inward so that the base resembles the letter “C”, not a straight line.

Optionally, you can tighten the points of the inner part in front of the eye (7 and 8 in the photo below).

Now we tighten everything, focusing on the numbers on the photo:

It’s better to do it crosswise (the left eye is the right part of the smile and

vice versa). Do not try to pull everything in 1 time, it is better to make 2-3 weights on

every point.

An example retraction algorithm:

We draw the thread at point 5 (the center of the muzzle or two rows above it).

Further:

5 – 6 (thread on top)

6 – 3 (thread under knitting)

3 – 5 (top)

5 – 4 (thread under knitting)

5 – 4 (top)

Next, the thread all the time under knitting:

4 – 1

2 – 3

4 – 7

7 – 8

8 – 3

If necessary, repeat some tweaks so that everything looks

symmetrically. You can further tighten the nose. That’s what happened in

As a result, I sewed the ears after the tightening, but it is better to do this before.

At this stage, I combed all the details.

3. We try on spouts, select suitable eyes.

It’s better to do this immediately with the eyebrows if you knit them. If we are going to

to tint the eye sockets, it is best to do this now before gluing the eye.

4. Pin the eyebrows with pins.

Select the expression of the face with or without eyebrows:

5. Glue eyes, nose, sew eyebrows.

Preliminarily, we are convinced of the symmetry of all the parts. Eyebrows

we sew after the eyes are glued and the glue dries well. I have

It took about half an hour. Glued with glue Specialist, it is transparent and

perfectly keeps parts, but with a rather pungent odor until the moment

drying out.

6. We comb our heads.

Thoroughly thoroughly comb the muzzle, eyebrows, ears. Like this

the cat comes out before sewing eyebrows:

7. We tint.

This moment is individual. I only tinted the eye sockets and the inside

part of the ears. You can optionally walk along the lines of the mouth and around the nose

8. We do the paw weights, focusing on the photo.

I made 3 fingers on the front legs and 4 on the back.

If desired, you can knock down the pads of the legs from wool, you can simply

walk with a brush with paint / pastel on the dents of fingers from the inside

sides and by string-pulls from the outside.

I rolled pieces of pink wool (combed ribbon), previously

turning them into circles. Next, with a needle, we form the necessary pads

shape and size, adding a little bit of wool, if necessary.

We roll everything with a needle, number 38, and the final touches and grinding

make needle 40.

We tint the paws. I filled the entire inside of the foot with paint

pads and went a little along the strings of tighteners from the outside.

We do the same with the hind legs. I did only make-ups there and

tinted, without felting.

9. Antennae.

We insert the antennae into the white muzzle and above the eyebrows. I have it the usual thin

black fishing line. Thickness not indicated (only 100 m and 7 kg).

I fold the tendril (about 25 cm) in half, knot a knot 2-3 cm from

bend and thread inside the muzzle with a needle. Fishing line which

left, cut off.

After we insert all the antennae, you can adjust their length by cutting off

superfluous. You can use the back of the brush to paint dots on

the location of the antennae or between them (see photo below).

That’s all, all meow!